Getting Started in Bonsai
by Paul Gilbert
Introduction
The
art of Bonsai is relative new in Western culture, but has been around for
centuries in
The
word is derived from two Japanese characters: bon, which means pot or tray and sai, which means planting or tree.
So literally, Bonsai is a tree in a pot.
The pronunciation is bone-sigh,
not bansai as it is most commonly
pronounced.
Bonsai
does not refer to a specific species of tree. (At a recent Bonsai show there
were 60 different species of trees displayed).
A bonsai tree is a miniature artistic representation of a mature tree in
nature. If it doesn’t resemble a tree in
nature, there is a question as to whether it is a bonsai. The small size is attained through branch and
root pruning.
The
world of Bonsai offers an incredible amount of relaxation, therapy and years of
enjoyment.
Finding
suitable material for Bonsai
The
best way to get started in Bonsai is to jump in a give it a try. It is not as difficult as many think. The best way to get started is not to buy a plant
or shrub shaped like a bonsai from a grocery store or a discount store. Many of these trees are light deprived and
may be dead or nearly dead when you make your purchase. The best bet is to purchase a one, three or
five gallon shrub or tree from your local nursery.
Pick
a plant that has healthy foliage and a strong trunk area. The most important part of choosing a future
bonsai candidate is an interesting trunk.
The
finished bonsai is generally between six inches to no more than three feet in
height. Select your plant with the final
height in mind. Junipers, such as
Procumbens Nana (Green Mound), are the easiest for beginners.
In
addition to your local nursery, there are some excellent nurseries that specialize
in pre-bonsai trees.
Getting
Started
After
you select your shrub or tree, it is time to start the process of turning the
plant into a bonsai. First clean away
any undergrowth, dead leaves or needles that keeps you from getting a good look
at the movement of the trunk. Take your
time! Look at the tree from different
angles. Study the tree to determine the
front. The front is the side of the tree
most pleasing to the eye. A chop stick
may be placed to mark the front of the tree.
(Don’t worry, finding the front of the tree is not an exact science and
may change later.)
At this point, try to envision what you think the tree should look like as a bonsai (a miniature tree in nature). It might be helpful to sketch out what you want the tree to look like. In bonsai there are many style variations. Do you want a formal upright tree (straight trunk)? Do you want an informal upright style (twisting trunk that moves upward)? Slanting or windswept style (resembles a tree on a cliff blown by the wind)? Cascade style (a tree growing over the edge of a cliff)? A forest (multiple trees resembling a grove or forest)? The shape of the trunk will help you determine which style to choose. Branches can be reshaped by wiring and pruning, but the trunk is predetermined by the tree, with the exception of seedlings.
Studying
trees in the neighborhood and countryside will help you to have in mind how
trees in nature are shaped. Most have
some triangular shape. The same is
normally true of a properly shaped bonsai, triangular with unequal sides.
Once
you determine how you want the tree to look you can slowly begin to turn it
into a bonsai. This will be done in two
primary ways: pruning and wiring.
Pruning may be done with common garden shears and wiring may be done
with anodized aluminum or copper wire.
Prune
away what does not belong on the tree.
Start with pruning the branches growing straight down. Branches crossing each other should be corrected
by pruning or wiring. In most styles,
the branches should alternate right and left up the trunk. The lowest branch is usually selected to
leave the trunk bare about one-third the distance from the ground to the top.
The lowest branch should be the largest. The second branch should be above and
opposite the first branch. It is pruned
to be a little shorter than the first. The third branch should point toward the
rear to give the bonsai depth.
The
tree may look a little sparse when you have finished cutting and wiring. Be patient. The branches will fill out. You are on the way
to creating your first bonsai.
Choosing
the pot and transplanting
After
wiring and pruning the tree, don’t be in too big of a hurry to place the tree
in a pot. Transplanting should normally
be done in the spring or fall. Avoid
transplanting in the heat of the summer.
The roots may be pruned in order for the tree to fit in a smaller
pot. In pruning it is important to leave
at least a ½ of the root ball mass. The
tree will mature more effectively as a bonsai if you prune the roots growing straight
down and leave the roots growing out on the sides.
For
larger shrubs (3 to 5 gallons size), it may be best to stage the
repotting, placing the plant in a
smaller pot for one or two years before going to yet a small bonsai pot.
Caring
for the tree
Most
people lose their treasured bonsai trees by placing them indoors. All conifer and deciduous trees must be kept
out doors. Bonsai trees do great
outdoors. In the winter the pot can be
buried or the tree can be placed in a cold frame or window-well with the pot
buried in mulch.
It
is important to realize the proper amount of light is perhaps more critical to
the life of a plant than is water. A well watered tree without the proper light
will quickly die. Many confer trees
require full sun; most maples need a little shade.
If
you want to keep your bonsai indoors you need to choose a tropical species,
such as, a Ficus or Schefflera that require less
light.
When
a tree is in a small pot, monitoring the moisture in the soil is critical. Your bonsai should be allowed to dry between
watering, but should never be bone dry.
Many trees need to be watered at least once a day in the summer and once
a week in the winter.
Your
tree may be fertilized by using regular fertilizer at half strength.
Polish
your skills through these resources
Basic
Bonsai Design,
David DeGroot, 1995, American Bonsai Society, www.absbonsai.org
Bonsai
Today,
magazine published by Stone Lantern, www.Stonelantern.com
The
Bonsai Handbook,
David Prescott, 2001 New
Sunset Bonsai (An Illustrated
Guide to an Ancient Art), available at most bookstores.
Totally
Bonsai,
Craig Coussins, 2001, Tuttle Publishing
New
England Bonsai Nursery www.nebonsai.com
© Paul
Gilbert * Paullynpaul@msn.com *970-371-0614